How An Insult Created A Sparkling Wine Appellation In Piedmont, Italy

The Piedmont region in northwestern Italy is renowned today for dry red wines—Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera and Dolcetto, as well as for a low alcohol sweet sparkling white wine—Moscato.

Yet historically, and currently, the Piedmont is also renowned for sparkling dry wines.

For centuries this small region of Italy has produced such wines. In the early 1600’s a jeweler turned winemaker named Giovanni Battista Croce made a sparkling wine—or crespie—from red Nebbiolo grapes that made ‘eyelashes furrow’ for its ‘sharpness of the spicy with the sweetness.’

On April 18^th, 1787, Thomas Jefferson—before becoming president of the United States—visited the city of Turin in Piedmont, where he tasted what he considered to be a pleasing red wine made from the Nebbiolo grape. He noted that it was as sweet as a silky Madeira, as astringent as a Bordeaux and as ‘brisk as Champagne.’ In other words this red wine sparkled.

In his 1838 novel The Charterhouse of Parma, author Stendhal (pen name for Marie-Henri Beyle) wrote about an imprisoned Milanese nobleman who requested a renowned sparkling wine from Asti in the Piedmont.

In the early 1900’s, Piedmontese sparkling wine was exhibited at the Universal Exhibition in Paris.

According to the book Alta Langa – Il Racconto du Una Denominazione (Alta Langa – Recollection of a Wine Designation) Piedmontese sparkling wines have three historical threads—reds (which Jefferson drank), Moscato based whites (which the Milanese prisoner requested) and classic sparkling wines based on Pinot Noir (which this article targets).

By the 1930’s the sparkling sweet white wine of Asti Spumante had gained renown in the Piedmont and throughout Italy. It was produced not by using the classical method, in which fermentation takes place twice, including once in the bottle—but less expensively by using autoclaves to control pressure. This spumante wine was so renowned that it was included at royal weddings—such as that between Umberto of Savoy and Maria Josè of Belgium in 1930—where Gran Spumante Cinzano was served.

Today, a region in southern Piedmont produces a high quality appellation—Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)—of sparkling dry white and rosé wines. This appellation is known as Alta Langa and the wines are made via the two-fermentation classical method. According to DOCG regulations, these wines are made from either, or both, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes which grow at a minimum elevation of at least 250 meters [820 feet] above sea level, (in territory where the average altitude is 150 meters [490 feet] above sea level). Each vineyard must contain at least 4,000 vines per hectare (1,620 per acre), with a maximum grape yield of 11,000 kilograms per hectare (4.9 tons per acre). These must age on lees for at least 30 months. The wine is always vintage, which means that the year of harvest must be indicated on the label.

Grapes grow over both marls (which help concentrate flavors and provide wines with aging potential) and sands (which help provide elegant floral aromas, but less aging potential).

The birth of this DOCG began with a cell phone conversation on January 18^th, 1990—when the first cell phones were in use. Winery owner Ottavio Riccadonna and his oenologist Ugo Conti were driving away from the city of Turin when they phoned Giancarlo Montaldo—a professional in the wine world. The pair in the car had just attended a meeting in Turin of wine producers. Those members recalled how, the previous November, a group of sparkling wine producers from other Italian regions, districts and provinces—including Franciacorta, Oltrepò Pavese, Trentino and Alto Adige—produced a memo proclaiming that no other wine areas in Italy could produce sparkling wines using the classical method. They had omitted the Piedmont region as a producer. Now, on the telephone, these three men agreed that such words were not just a mockery, but a taunt. They agreed to meet days later at the Riccadonna estate.

During subsequent meetings, this trio and others agreed that seven wine producers—the ‘seven sisters’ of Cinzano, Gancia, Martini & Rossi, Riccadonna, Contratto, Fontanafreda, and Banfi—would lead the way in obtaining recognition for sparkling wines made using the classical method in the Piedmont. After meeting, all agreed to contribute financially to the effort, and to grow experimental grape plots within three provinces of Piedmont: Alessandria, Asti and Cuneo—on the right bank of the Tanaro River. They decided to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on 57 hectares (141 acres) of experimental vineyards at higher elevations over ‘white’ rather than ‘red’ soils. The growers would eventually work with 28 clones of Pinot Noir and 12 clones of Chardonnay. Giancarlo Montaldo traveled to Champagne to meet French producers and solicit their inputs. By 1998 the group had selected Alta Langa as the name of their proposed new appellation, and by 2000—after 10 years—their growing experiment concluded. In 2001 the Alta Langa consortium was established with 41 wine growers, and by the fall of 2002 their denomination was recognized as a DOCG, retroactive to the 2008 vintage.

Creation of this appellation significantly impacted the Piedmont wine world. I recently ate dinner with Roberto Bava, a local wine producer who was selling wines in Boulder, Colorado decades ago—when I still studied there. Two decades ago Bava spontaneously decided to charter a 737 jet to fly 120 Piedmont winemakers and sales representatives to a wine exposition in Bordeaux, France to promote their wares. When he described his multiple wine promotion adventures in life, Bava’s voice resonated with pride in telling about the creation of Alta Langa DOCG. “I was proud to see the birth of that appellation.”

Earlier this month I tasted over a hundred of these Alta Langa sparkling wines. (Tasting notes, scores and value evaluations for over 70 of these wines are included here at my szj">Vino Voices website.) In general the wines are consistent with regard to quality and characteristics. Acidity is firm and clean, though as not pronounced as in, say, Trentino; however tropical fruit aromas and flavors are abundant and include guava, pineapple, mandarin, orange, passionfruit, mango and grapefruit, while mid palate flavors may include green apple and raspberry. Higher quality wines are layered and complex with aromas and flavors that include bread dough, brioche, nuttiness and a creamy caramel/toffee/butterscotch lilt that is both remarkably satisfying and begging to be paired with rich food. Consider game dishes such as honey basted poultry, or a creamy risotto coated in shaved white truffles. And Alta Langa sparkling rosés are exceptional.

Alta Langa exemplifies how the Piedmont continues to beguile the world in embedding layers of detail and intensity in its cuisine and wine. If you visit the region, start lunch or dinner with an Alta Langa sparkling wine before moving onto renowned reds and finishing with a Moscato.

Try These Nine High Quality Alta Langa DOCG Sparkling Wines

For a longer and more comprehensive set of tasting notes, scores and value evaluations, visit my szj">Vino Voices website article about Alta Langa.

Abrigo Fratelli. Sivà 60 Mesi. Brut. 2018. 92-93 points.

Spunky aromas of brown sugar, golden syrup and mint. A sparky mid palate that is complex and energetic with flashing acidity and boisterous tropical flavors.

Enrico Serafino. Zero 140 Mesi. Pas Dosè. 2011. 92-93 points.

Bright and uplfiting aromas that include pineapple, guava, gooseberries and mint. A frothy, sexy, captivating wine that is balanced, nuanced, complex, fresh and with delicate but bright acidity.

Ivaldi. Andrea Rosé. Extra Brut. 2020. 92-93 points.

Red fruit aromas as well as spearmint, fresh bread dough, red plums and raspberries. A textured, nuanced, layered and beautiful array of fruit and fresh dough. Pair with an appetizer of shrimp and sliced avocados.

Massimo Rivetti. Rosé. Extra Brut. 2020. 93-94 points.

A luxurious set of aromas that include guava, green apples, white pears, red plums, peaches and honey. Layered, complex and with bright acidity. Beautiful and buoyant mid palate! Complex, rich flavors of red and white fruits, succulent acidity. Gastronomic wine, but can also be for pre-dinner.

Fontanafredda. Contessa Rosa. Riserva Rosé. Brut. 2018. 92 points.

Color of a Sauvignon Blanc. Bright and focused aromas of white pears, peaches and mint. Complex and focused with clean aromas. Easy drinking with flavors of green apples and peaches. Zesty acidity.

Araldica. Il Cascinone Alasia Rosé. Brut. 2020. 93 points.

Aromas of cola and raspberries, lemongrass and lime. Juicy acidity. Wholesome full bodied and well balanced mid palate with flavors of pineapple, mango, kiwi fruit, guava and fresh bread. Gastronomic. Rich and delicious.

Cocchi. Rosa. Rosè. Brut. 2019. 93 points.

This will take your breathe away. Fresh and breezy aromas of florals that include lilacs, as well as menthol, gooseberries, lime and white pears. Deliciously well balanced mid palate with generous layered flavors of fruit and bright acidity.

Matteo Coreggia. Severina. Rosé. Extra Brut. 2018. 93 points.

85/15 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay. Light colored golden rosé. Succulent caramel aromas that are complex, rich and layered. Beautiful complex toffee apple flavors; zesty acidity, fresh pomegranate and raspberry flavors. Delicious.

Marcalberto. Extra Brut. 2020. 92 points.

70/30 blend of Pinot Noir/Chardonnay aged in oak and steel for 36 months. Bright acidity, balanced, fine, focused flavors with green apples and grapefruit. A rich and delicious wine.

Try These Seven High Quality and Superlative Value Alta Langa DOCG Sparkling Wines

For a longer and more comprehensive set of tasting notes, scores and value evaluations, visit my szj">Vino Voices article on Alta Langa.

Prices are in Euros and are local cellar door prices, without Value Added Tax.

Tenuta Carretta. Airali. 2020. Brut. 92+ points. €17.50. Superlative Value ♫♫♫.

Wispy, feather light and creamy aromas of light tropicals as well as green grass. Delightful mid palate with clean acidity, sparky tropical flavors as well as some caramel and brioche. Touche!

Agricola TT. 2020. 92-93 points. €16.00. Superlative Value ♫♫♫.

Sexy and rounded aromas that include caramel, toffee, brioche and chestnuts. Beautiful mid palate that is complex, rich and layered. Includes a backdrop of tropicals behind mid palate flavors that include baguette and toffee.

Tosti1820. Giulio I 100 Mesi. Extra Brut. 2012. 93 points. €21.00. Superlative Value ♫♫♫.

100% Pinot Noir. Toffee covered green apple aromas, as well as sourdough and lemons. Lovely and polished mid palate with flavors of white pears, caramel and butterscotch. A gastronomic wine.

Banfi. Cuvée Aurora Rosé. Extra Brut. 2020. 93-94 points. €18.50. Superlative Value ♫♫♫.

Captivating tropical aromas that include pineapples and passionfruit as well as honey. Light, fluffy, delicious mid palate in a wine that is beautifully easy drinking, delicious and filled with tropical flavors as well as brioche. Balanced and gastronomic.

Colombo. Rosé. Brut. 2020. 93-94 points. €22.95. Superlative Value ♫♫♫.

100% Pinot Noir. Snappy aromas of lemongrass, green apples, raspberries and red plums. Structured and layered with firm, juicy acidity. Mid palate flavors include red plums, with a flash of caramel on the finish. Festive, generous, delicious.

Pianbello. Pianbé Rosé. Brut. 2020. 93-94 points. €17.90. Superlative Value ♫♫♫.

Fresh, festive, breezy and light aromas that are fluffy and enticing and include caramel, allspice, lime and red plums. Full and oily mouthful of red cherries, raspberries, limes and with nuttiness on the finish. Deliciously balanced.

Marcalberto. Blanc de Blancs. 2020. 93 points. €20.00. Superlative Value ♫♫♫.

Rich, crisp, mineral, graphite, pumpelmousse, lime and fresh dough aromas. Creamy and yet angular bright acidity with kiwi, mandarin and gooseberry flavors.

For more tasting notes for Alta Langa wines, visit my szj">VinoVoices website.